Searching London’s Lost River
By Jason Sandy
Course of Westbourne River through London (Illustration by Jason Sandy).
Hidden beneath London’s busy streets and neighborhoods, several ancient rivers flow quietly and unnoticed under foot. They once supplied fresh water to the capital city before discharging into the mighty River Thames. Over the years, they have been culverted, submerged underground, and built over.
River Westbourne
The River Westbourne, one of these “Lost Rivers,” originated in the hills of Hampstead in north London. As it meanders under Westbourne Grove through Bayswater and pours into the Serpentine Lake in Hyde Park, the river continues its journey southwards under “Knight’s Bridge” (one of London’s most affluent areas) and flows underground until it reaches Sloane Square. There it makes a brief appearance as it crosses through a green, steel viaduct spanning over the London Underground trains before disappearing again below the surface underneath the “Chelsea Barracks” residential development and discharges inconspicuously into the River Thames near Chelsea Bridge (above).
After the Chelsea Barracks site was purchased by Qatari Diar (the company I work for), the company appointed the Museum of London Archaeology (MOLA) to conduct an archaeological survey during the excavations of the lost River Westbourne under the site. Imagine beachcombing along a submerged river. I couldn’t wait to see what they would discover! During the survey, thousands of historic artifacts were recovered from the ancient riverbed and adjacent ponds which were backfilled in the 19th century. Some of the oldest finds include prehistoric flint tools and Saxon pottery.
18th–19th century wooden toy boat (Jason Sandy). Toy cannons and toy anchor (Jason Sandy).
A wooden toy boat from the 18th or 19th century (above) is one of the most interesting artifacts excavated from the Chelsea Barracks site. The waterlogged conditions of the lost river and adjacent ponds have beautifully preserved the timber which would have deteriorated quickly in dry conditions. It is evidence that children played along the river and ponds, sailing toy boats on the water for entertainment.
During the archaeological survey, several toy cannons and a toy anchor (above) were discovered. They could have fallen off the wooden toy boats and sunk to the bottom of the water. Some toy cannons from the 17th and 18th centuries could actually fire small projectiles. If you look closely, you can see the hole in the toy cannons where a small amount of gun powder was inserted. The cannons occasionally backfired and injured the children playing with them. Several other children’s toys were found in the mud, including different types of miniature toy plates and a large whirly gig. They are evidence of kids’ playtime activities along the river.
17th-century onion bottles (Jason Sandy). Mallet and onion bottle (Jason Sandy). 18th-century glass apothecary bottles (Jason Sandy).
Cushioned by the soft mud of the ancient riverbed, three complete onion bottles and a mallet bottle from the 17th and 18th centuries (above) have miraculously survived intact. In the 17th century, bottles were developed with a unique, wide bottom and low center of gravity to prevent the bottle from tipping over and spilling its valuable wine or spirits. These bulbous-shaped, glass bottles became known as “onion” bottles. It is very rare to find an unbroken bottle of this type.
Surprisingly, 300-year-old apothecary bottles (above) have also survived intact. Adjacent to the development is the famous Chelsea Hospital with its “Apothecary’s Laboratory” and “Physic Garden” which were established in the 17th century. Within the garden, fruit trees and medicinal plants and herbs were grown, and apothecaries (pharmacists) would produce and distribute their own medicines to the Chelsea Pensioners who lived there.
In the 18th century, apothecaries used small glass bottles to store medicines. These bottles also contained oils, balsams, dried seeds, powders, smelling salts, minerals, preserves, spices, and even parts of animals.
Ranelagh Pleasure Gardens
“The Rotunda at Ranelagh” (Canaletto, 1754).
Between Chelsea Hospital and the site of the Chelsea Barracks development, the Ranelagh Pleasure Gardens was established as an entertainment venue and opened in 1742 by a syndicate led by the proprietor of the Theater Royal in Drury Lane (London). Inspired by the Pantheon in Rome, a rococo rotunda was designed and constructed as the centerpiece of the gardens (facing page, top right). The grand dome spanned 120 feet and was supported by a large, central feature consisting of columns in a circular formation which was used as a massive fireplace to heat the colossal space. In 1754, Venetian painter Canaletto captured the beauty of the rotunda interior in his well-known painting (above). Mozart performed in the rotunda in 1765, when he was only 9 years old. Today, the former site of the historic gardens is used for the world-famous Chelsea Flower Show every year in May.
Ranelagh Gardens engraving (Thomas Bowles, 1754).
Ranelagh Gardens were a place of pure pleasure and a welcome escape from the filthy, smelly streets of London in the 18th century. Around the large rotunda, visitors enjoyed walking along the meandering pathways surrounded by well-manicured gardens and perfumed air. The main path was lined by elms and yews, leading from Ranelagh House to the circular Temple of Pan on the eastern side of the garden near the River Thames. Hundreds of lamps were playfully suspended from the trees to create a magical experience. The candlelight shimmered and danced on the surface of an ornamental lake as the water flowed around the Chinese House.
Decorated pottery sherds and transferware pottery depicting idyllic garden scenes (Jason Sandy).
During the excavations of the building site located adjacent to Ranelagh Gardens, thousands of pottery sherds (above) were found, ranging from Saxon to modern times. Some of the sherds are beautifully decorated with idyllic scenes similar to the pleasure garden. On two of the pottery sherds, people are shown enjoying a walk through a utopian landscape comprised of undulating hills and picturesque ponds with boats. In the distance, oriental and neoclassical pavilions are surrounded by groves of exotic trees.
Broken sherds of a teapot (Jason Sandy). 18th-century black basalt teapot (Jason Sandy).
Many people visited the pleasure gardens to drink coffee and tea while they socialized with friends. One of the most beautiful artifacts discovered on the site is an 18th century Wedgwood black basalt teapot (above), which unfortunately was found crushed and broken into over 20 different pieces. I carefully and painstakingly reassembled the teapot, which was a three-dimensional jigsaw puzzle. In the late 18th century, Josiah Wedgwood began producing black basalt fineware, inspired by early Egyptian black wares. Wedgwood’s highly decorative designs were influenced by ancient Roman, Greek, and Egyptian cultures whose civilizations were being excavated by archaeologists at that time.
18th-century jug depicting lovers (Jason Sandy).
Ranelagh Gardens were also a popular venue for romantic assignations. The fairytale atmosphere created the perfect place to meet a lover in the hidden corners of the “pleasure” gardens. In the 18th century, historian and politician Edward Gibbon wrote that it was “the most convenient place for courtships of every kind—the best market we have in England.” During the excavations along the lost river, an 18th century jug (above) was discovered. On the lower half of the vessel, it depicts a hunting scene. On the upper part, two lovers are depicted in a passionate embrace, as chubby cherubs serenade them with music.
Brass finger ring set with glass paste stones (Jason Sandy). Georgian fob seal (Jason Sandy). Glass intaglio engraved with bust of Greek god (Jason Sandy).
An ornate finger ring (above left), adorned with colorful glass paste stones, was also found on the site. Perhaps a lover lost the ring after a romantic encounter in the pleasure gardens.
Royalty and well-to-do aristocrats were also attracted to the gardens. After visiting Ranelagh, politician Horace Walpole said, “You can’t set your foot without treading on a Prince.” They wanted to show off their wealth and social status by wearing expensive clothes and fashion accessories. Ranelagh was a place to see and be seen. During excavations of the site, a highly decorated, 18th-century fob seal (above center) was recovered, and I lovingly restored it. The seal matrix (above right) is set with a white glass intaglio, engraved with the bust of a classical Greek god. It is still attached to a delicate chain which would have been suspended from the waistcoat of a well-educated Georgian gentleman who probably used it to stamp personal letters and official documents.
Georgian brass cufflinks (Jason Sandy). 18th-century bowling balls (Jason Sandy).
Ranelagh was often visited by the fashion elite. Wealthy patrons wore powdered wigs, frills, and ruffles with gold-headed canes. The pleasure gardens were renowned for their lavish and ostentatious masquerades. On the site, a pair of 18th-century cufflinks (above left) were found during the excavations. They are made of brass and would have originally been polished to look like gold. A well-dressed aristocrat could have lost these cufflinks as he was leaving Ranelagh.
Bowling was a popular pastime on the well-trimmed lawns of the gardens. Men and women would spend countless hours enjoying the game while smoking, drinking, relaxing, and socializing. In the thick mud of the former riverbed, four bowling balls (above right) made of teak (a tropical hardwood) were discovered by archaeologists. They were perfectly preserved by the waterlogged conditions of the lost river and adjacent ponds.
Army Barracks
The residential development is named “Chelsea Barracks” after the former army barracks which were built on the site and opened in 1862. In the mid-19th century, the River Westbourne was culverted below ground, and the old riverbed was infilled for the construction of Chelsea Bridge Road and the barracks. The long, brick building housed two battalions of infantry. In the late 1950s, the Victorian buildings were demolished and replaced with two 13-story tower blocks to accommodate four companies from the Guards Regiments.
During the excavations of the old barracks, the archaeologists surprisingly found very little evidence of the soldiers who were based on the site. When I first visited the Museum of London Archaeology to inspect the artifacts recovered from the army barracks, I had expected to see loads of military buttons, badges, bullets, and personal items lost by the soldiers. As far as I am aware, none of these items were found on the site.
Clay pipes found on Chelsea Barracks site (Jason Sandy).
However, hundreds of clay smoking pipes were found (above). The majority of armorial pipes are decorated with two motifs: the British royal coat of arms or the Prince of Wales’s heraldic badge. Although some pipes predate the barracks, most of them are from the 19th century when the soldiers occupied the site.
British royal coat of arms. Clay pipe with British royal coat of arms (Jason Sandy).
Smoking was very popular back then, and soldiers smoked pipes as they relaxed and played card and board games while they were stationed at the barracks. The soldiers wore uniforms with buttons and badges depicting the British royal coat of arms, and they also smoked pipes with the same insignia (above).
Clay pipe with Prince of Wales insignia (Jason Sandy). Prince of Wales heraldic badge (Jason Sandy).
The Prince of Wales is the official title of the “heir apparent” (next in line) to the British throne. During Victorian times when the barracks were built, the heir apparent was Edward VII, son of Queen Victoria. Soldiers possibly smoked clay pipes (above right) with his heraldic badge—three ostrich feathers encircled by a golden coronet—to display their allegiance to the future king. He ascended to the throne in 1901 after his mother died. Today, the King’s Foundation (a charity run by King Charles III) is based in the existing Garrison Chapel within the Chelsea Barracks development. Before Charles became king in 2022, he was the Prince of Wales and used the same insignia depicted on the Victorian clay pipes found during the excavations.
19th-century stoneware bottles (Jason Sandy). 19th-century stoneware inkwells (Jason Sandy). 19th-century pewter tankard (Jason Sandy).
Many complete stoneware bottles and inkwells were discovered on the site of the Victorian army barracks. Several of the bottles (above left) have been stamped with the words: “The Property of R. Thwaites, London and Sheffield, Estd. 1799.” In the 19th century, R. Thwaites produced mineral water, soda water, and ginger ale which were sold in these stoneware bottles and probably consumed by the soldiers. The inkwells (above center) were possibly used by the soldiers to write letters to their wives or sweethearts as they were stationed in London.
During the excavation work, a complete 19th century pewter tankard was found. Initially, I could only see some faint letters visible through the dark layers of dirt covering the vessel (above right). After I carefully cleaned it at home, I could read the engraving: “T. Fluke, 3 Crowns, Chelsea.”
I was thrilled to see the word “Chelsea” on the tankard, which is probably from the early 19th century. After conducting some research online, I discovered that the “Three Crowns” pub was mentioned in the 1841 census. It was located in modern day Pimlico Road on the western side of Chelsea Barracks. The tankard didn’t travel far before it was probably lost by its owner “T. Fluke” whose name is inscribed on the vessel. There are still several pubs located along Pimlico Road.
Residential Development
Water feature inspired by the “Lost River” (Qatari Diar). Bottom left: Poem engraved in building façade (Jason Sandy).
To symbolize the lost river, which still runs in a viaduct adjacent to the building site, the landscape architects have designed a long rill (manmade stream) which flows from one end of the site to the other (above). To enter the residential buildings from the southwest, you must cross small bridges across the water feature which pour into a fountain in Mulberry Square which is open to residents and the general public.
To adorn the building elevations, Qatari Diar appointed a well-known British poet to write a poem which has been carved into the stone façade of the central building (above) on the development. Inspired by the unique site, poet Pele Cox created a complex combination of words which mention Ranelagh Gardens and the lost river.
Cabinet of Curiosities (Jason Sandy).
To date, Qatari Diar has completed about half of the necessary excavation of the Chelsea Barracks site which straddles the former bed of the River Westbourne. As Qatari Diar continues to develop the site in the coming years, I hope to find more history related to the lost river and adjacent pleasure gardens. Some of the extraordinary artifacts discovered on the site were on display in the Museum of London as part of the “Lost Rivers” exhibition in 2019. This year I have curated a “Cabinet of Curiosities” within the development to show residents what has been found beneath their feet in the ancient riverbed.
Mudlarking on the Thames Foreshore requires a permit. Learn about rules for mudlarking in London ›
Join mudlark Jason Sandy on a beachcombing trip to some of his favorite spots on the River Thames, where he finds treasures buried for centuries in the London mud. He also shares some of his favorite pieces in his extensive collection of finds from prehistory through modern times.
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Learn more about the experiences of mudlarks, who search the shores of rivers, bays, and seas for historical finds and other objects. Articles ›
This article appeared in Beachcombing Magazine Volume 43 July/August 2024.
